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Author Topic: 20th Day of Incubation(bobs)  (Read 7296 times)
CharlieHorse
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Northern Bobwhites

« Reply #15 on: June 30, 2007, 08:31:22 PM »

Does anyone actually use or have used this method of lowering the temperature to 98.5 degrees in last few days of incubation?



Quote
Maybe some others have an opinion/experience/knowledge with lowering the temp?

Yup, it's a fact.

Now yer gona want data, heh ?

 :laugh:

Not at this moment though ! Tired.....

Where's it at?   We're still waiting.    :police:
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MtBullion Gamebirds
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« Reply #16 on: June 30, 2007, 08:47:10 PM »

Actually yes trailbossusa.  That is my normal procedure, I lower the temp to 98.5 and then up the humidity to about 90 % wet bulb.  So far it has worked great for me, I seem to always have pretty above average hatches.
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Teresa
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CharlieHorse
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Northern Bobwhites

« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2007, 09:06:08 PM »

Actually yes trailbossusa.  That is my normal procedure, I lower the temp to 98.5 and then up the humidity to about 90 % wet bulb.  So far it has worked great for me, I seem to always have pretty above average hatches.

 I guess that it appears that many/some of us are curious as to why that is done?

Thanks
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WHITNEYPLU
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« Reply #18 on: July 01, 2007, 01:40:43 AM »

I use Sportsmans incubators and hatchers and I have never lowered any of them from 100 degrees. The new one I have is set by a electronic thermostat and it never changes. I add 2 wicks the last three days and kick up the humidty level and always have high hatch rates. I have read that regular opening of the lid is not harmful what so every and even leaving the door/lid open for 20 minutes doesn't hurt them( I do not advise this) and I have changed out an old wafer thermostat in a GQf incubator which took about 10 minutes with the door open and had an excellent hatch rate. Most higher quality electronically controlled incubators do have a cool down period to reproduce the period of time the hen leaves the nest to eat and drink. Alot of people take a bunch of eggs they have had shipped and get low hatch rates to mean they failed to do the right thing. Eggs bought and shipped are a gamble this is why they do not guarnetee hatchabilty. The post office handles them to rough and the regular other reasons. Then when they have a low hatch rate they get discouraged with incubation. Always get fresh eggs that you collect locally to learn to incubate with, and incubate them before they are 7 days old,  the hatch rates will be much higher. Anyways back to the main point, it is okay to open the lid on a Little Giant incubator everyday to fill the water trays up with warm water.
Dusty
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SportDog
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« Reply #19 on: July 01, 2007, 02:04:27 PM »

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I guess that it appears that many/some of us are curious as to why that is done?


From what I have read it says to lower it due to the extra heat from the chicks. 

I actually left my temp alone(99.5) for the hatch and ended up with a GREAT hatch. 
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Pheasant Hollow Farm
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« Reply #20 on: July 01, 2007, 04:28:54 PM »

I don't lower my temps either. I just bump the humidity some more. I get 90-95% hatches. At one time I would hem-n-hor over the temps. No more, I just set the temp at 99.5 degrees with the wet bulb at 82-84 degrees and let it go until the last 3 days and move them to the hatcher and just increase the humidity to 85 to 87 degrees wet bulb. 3 days later close to 400 hundred pheasant chicks.

Steve
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WHITNEYPLU
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« Reply #21 on: July 01, 2007, 04:48:33 PM »

yelp like my dad always said "keep it simple stupid" meaning dont overthink things and make it complicated. Leave the temp at 99 to 100 degrees, humidty at 50 to 75%, and either use an automatic turner or turn atleast three times a day( always an odd number) and the eggs will do the rest.
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MtBullion Gamebirds
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« Reply #22 on: July 01, 2007, 05:38:12 PM »

Well don't I feel stupid.  I have been doing it that way for years.  Just the way I learned it.  I keep them in the incubator at 99-100 degrees, until the last 3 days and then move to the hatcher.  Drop the temp down 1 degree and up the humidity. 

But hey, I never knew exactly why, thought it had something to do with the body temp also.  I think I will try sitting the hatcher at the same temp as the incubator on my next hatch and see how I do.  It sure would be easier, so I could hatch on the bottom of the incubator if needed, at all the same temp.
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Teresa
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WHITNEYPLU
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« Reply #23 on: July 01, 2007, 05:52:11 PM »

Well don't I feel stupid.  I have been doing it that way for years.  Just the way I learned it.  I keep them in the incubator at 99-100 degrees, until the last 3 days and then move to the hatcher.  Drop the temp down 1 degree and up the humidity. 

But hey, I never knew exactly why, thought it had something to do with the body temp also.  I think I will try sitting the hatcher at the same temp as the incubator on my next hatch and see how I do.  It sure would be easier, so I could hatch on the bottom of the incubator if needed, at all the same temp.
[/quote




you using a sportsmans system too huh? they have worked great for me, what about u?
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Pheasant Hollow Farm
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« Reply #24 on: July 01, 2007, 07:23:28 PM »

I have two sportsmans for incubation and an old cedar Humidaire I use for the hatching.

Steve
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« Reply #25 on: July 01, 2007, 09:15:20 PM »

I have two sportsmans.  I use one as a hatcher, unless I have a large amount of eggs.  I love them.  Just keep the bucket on top filled.  Check the temp one in awhile and forget it.  Turns them on it's own.  Don't even have to open the door till the three days before to move into the hatching position.   We may get another one next year.  Depends on how much money I actually make this year.  With the cost of feed the way it is.  I don't even know if we will break even.  Just the Pheasant alone, not counting all the other birds, are eating 50 lbs a day alone.
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Teresa
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WHITNEYPLU
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« Reply #26 on: July 01, 2007, 09:39:47 PM »

I have 2 1202 rattie gqf and a hatcher that I bought at a yard sale for 50 bucks and a new Sportsman that I bought at QC Supply this year. I bought extra trays for the 1202's and they work great on quail thru geese eggs. I am going to upgrade them this year to electronic tempostats. I had other kinds of incubators and they seem to work out better for me. Same yard sale had a 20,000 Quail egg capacity incubator that they sold for 75 bucks before I got there.  All our chickens 10 hole nest boxes we got that way for less than 20.00 a piece. Just dont buy feeders and waterers used. We then take them to the car wash before we bring them home and wash them really good with bleach (stop by the Dollar store and grab a gallon on the way to the carwash.)
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wildergamebirds
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« Reply #27 on: July 01, 2007, 11:09:24 PM »

Well look at this!

   http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/B1215.htm

  You may recognize this as the website whitneyplu posted on another subject today.  If you scroll down to Table 2, you will see a recommended temperature of 99.75  and a recommended temperature for the last 3 days of 99.

  I've not tried this, although opening additional vents, upping the humidity, and maintaining temperature was pretty tough, this winter.  New facilities, and I discovered there was no insulation in the ceiling, and 4" of insulation in the 6" walls= drafts a plenty.

  Dropping the temperature a degree, or so, would make it a little easier to raise the humidity.  My incubators have a cooling compressor to offset heat from chicks, but I have never hatched that many chicks, at once.

  Still no clear answer to "why"
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Reeves
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« Reply #28 on: July 02, 2007, 07:14:44 AM »

I keep forgetting about this topic.....I'll make a (written) note to look for the data !

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