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| | |-+  help on a thermometor
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Author Topic: help on a thermometor  (Read 4772 times)
gp
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« on: March 14, 2005, 05:34:20 PM »

i need a new thermometor and a humidity guage.i guess that is what you would call it .if you could tell me some good ones.a link to one would be nice .thanks
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penny's dad
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« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2005, 09:02:15 PM »

www.gqf.com   they sell the thermometer and hygrometer i use. P.D.
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penny's dad
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« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2005, 09:04:01 PM »

OK THAT WAS A BAD ADDRESS TRY www.gqf mfg.com
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penny's dad
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« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2005, 09:06:57 PM »

www.gqfmfg.com
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gp
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« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2005, 09:23:27 PM »

thanks does any body sell the thermometer and the hygometer all in one or do you have to buy the thermometer and the hygometer seperate?
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penny's dad
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« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2005, 10:00:26 PM »

THE ONE I USE ARE THE SAME ONE FOR TEMP ONE FOR HUMIDITY THE ONE FOR HUMIDITY HAS A WET SOCK ON IT.  P.D.
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Hardhead
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« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2005, 09:14:08 PM »

Can you explain how the thermometer works in regards to reading the humidty. Is there a different temp setting if the sock is wet??? Sorry if this sounds dumb but I just cannot see how it works with just a temp dial.
Garry
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penny's dad
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« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2005, 06:54:41 AM »

YEP I THINK I CAN EXPLAIN IT . STAND IN FRONT OF A FAN LICK YOUR FINGER HOLD IT UP FEEL HOW MUCH COOLER THAT FINGER IS? SO THE THERMOMETER WITH THE WET SOCK ON IT GET COOLED. THE AMOUNT OF EVAPORATION THAT ACCURS SHOWS YOUR HUMIDITY AND THE LESS THE THERMOMETER WILL READ. IF ITS HUMID IN THE BATOR LESS EVAPORATION WILL ACCUR SHOWING A HIGHER WETBULB TEMP AND VICEVERSA.  IT REALLY DON'T SHOW THE HUMIDITY WE GO BY WETBULB TEMP SCALE. HOPE THIS HELPS.  P.D.
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Hardhead
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« Reply #8 on: March 23, 2005, 07:30:11 AM »

Now I understand the way it works. There is a different temp reading to maintain. Sooo if the wetsock/wick is used what would the reading for 99.5 be?
Thanks
Garry :?:
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stewaw
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« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2005, 09:30:20 PM »

Here is a website from the Poultry connection that contains a wet bulb / dry bulb conversion table.  If you have two accurate thermometers, just slip a piece of tennis shoe lace over one and dip the lace into a water source inside the incubator and "poof" you just created a wet bulb thermometer. Leave the dry bulb thermometer in the incubator also.
The web page also has a decent explanation of what/how this works.

http://www.poultryconnection.com/quackers/chart.html


David
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Hardhead
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« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2005, 09:38:51 AM »

Thanks David that explans a lot. Now everyona knows why me nickname is Hardhead  :wink:  
So if I use the same small thermometer that came with the Little Giant incubator. This one is about 5 inches long and sets on a bracket that allows it to be viewed from the window. I put another one in the other widow and slip a shoestring about 6" long over the end of it and let it lay in one of the water rings that are made into the bator and use the chart that I printed out from your reccomemded site I will be in buisness. But how far up the thermometer should the wick go? I assume just enough to cover the bulb? Or should it be a bit further up ...say an inch or so. Should it fit very snug or will it matter if it is a little loose on the thermometer? Anothter question.... :oops: How much does the outside humidity play a role on the bators inside humidity. Our humidity here is usually pretty high. Like right now it is at 87% and usually is no lower than 60%. Again thanks for your feedback.
Garry
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stewaw
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« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2005, 07:59:50 PM »

The shoe lace only needs to cover the bulb as you said. It should be in good contact so if the wick/lace is loose you can use a small piece of string and wrap it around the wick/lace to snug it up or if they are still available, the tiny rubber bands that used to be used for orthodontic braces (do they still use those??) would work. I prefer as short a wick as I can get by with since it will be losing moisture (hence accuracy) the farther from the water supply it is.  My hygrometer uses a small vial of water much like an inverted test tube with a small hole in the end rather than fully open as a test tube is. This rests in a small reservoir of water that is kept full by the tube.  If the water rings on your bator are too far away, use a plastic lid from a soda pop bottle.  I would think these should hold enough water to last 2-3 days before needing refilling. Ambient (outside) humidity plays a big role in the humidity inside the incubator. If the insubator is inside the house, it usually remains fairly stable but if the incubator is in a non-air conditioned/heated shop or garage it will vary in direct relationship to the ambient humidity.

David
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Hardhead
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« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2005, 10:38:33 PM »

A Temperature/ hygrometer that is digital with one wire for temp but it sits well inside the incubator at the space between the turner rails. This may or may not work I will see but I sat it in and the humidity reading was 80% with a temp of 101 which the temp was a couple of degress higher than the bulb therm inside that came with it. I also put a small air freshner fan in there to.....Now if I can find some place to put eggs in I will be in buisness :lol:  They really fit nicely in the middle row. A bit hard to see thru the window but I can see it. I went looking for the hygrometer but I think this may work better if it will last in there. I shall see. Thanks for the help David.
Garry
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stewaw
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« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2005, 10:42:39 PM »

I always use multiple thermometers to cross check accuracy and I rarely ever have a complete agreement between them.  Use the hatch day as your guide to which one is the most accurate- hatch one day early=one degree ave hot temp, hatch one day late=one degree ave cold temp.  Heck I don't care if the darn thing is four degrees off (hot/cold) as long as it is constantly four degrees off.


Good Luck,
David
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