Getting them to lay???

[texquailer]

I got a question, how long before I get eggs?

I bought 21 Jumbo Giant Bobwhite Quail (7 males and 14 females) about 3 weeks ago. These quail were raised from eggs last spring and have never laid eggs yet (about 10 months old).  We transported them about 5 miles in a cage in the bed of my truck. We started them on some food we got from the seller for the first week. For the last seven days we have been feeding the Purina breeding feed. We have had them in a totally closed in aviary (shed) an the temperature has ranged from 40’s at night to 75 for daytime highs. We added vitamins to their water since we got them. We have a florescent light on them for 17 hours a day starting from the day we got them. We have them in a rack type cage, and all of them are in a cage 2 ½’ x 4’.

Do you see anything wrong here? Is it still stress from the move? Am I rushing things?

Thanks for any help…
Rick

[jeno99]

How much light do they get? I heard that was a factor also.

[stewaw]

I need some clarification first- Are you saying that you have all 21 quail in a cage 2 1/2 x 4 feet or separated in some fashion (pairs,trios etc..) in different cages of that size?  If they are all in one cage that would be a start.  By cramping them that tight, whenever a pair gave any indication of wanting to breed other males would interfere. Since "effective" breeding is not taking place due to stress or interference, the hens egg production factory will be delayed- especially if they have been raised in a larger cage.
  I generally notice a pause of up to two weeks about anytime I switch things up by moving cages/birds around etc. before egg production resumes.
  Next- Your hrs of light is ok but it may not be bright enough. I don't go from natural light to 17 hours in one step though. I try to "speedily" mimic nature by gradually increasing the light about 30 min a day in the morning. I let them go to be by natural light) until I get to 14-17 hours a day.  Personally I've found with artificial lighting I have to add so much extra flourescent lighting that any cost savings on electricity was lost. I switched to one 40 watt incandescent bulb per 15 sq feet of roof.  
  Heat can be a factor as well, my Tenn Reds don't begin producing eggs until the temp is remaining in the 50's at night.  Right now mine are on natural light and are beginning to pair up and false mount but the hens aren't "standing" for the males. Still a little early here on natural light.
 
David

[pocketsierra]

Most flourescent lights have a lot of the blue spectrum (cool flourescent) and not enough of the red spectrum (warm flourescent). From previous threads, this may have made a difference to some. Getting a mixture of warm and cool flourescents or a full spectrum flourescent may help.

Nathan

[drwink]

Started laying within a couple weeks of putting just a red heat lamp on them in January. I put it in there as we were getting sub-zero night time temps. The next thing I knew they were popping eggs.

Wally

[texquailer]

Yes, all 21 are in the same cage. It doesn't seemed cramped at all.

This weekend I'm going to mix it up again. Adding windows for some natural light, seperating them into two different cages and adding dividers in the cages.

This will sure put them in shock again. :shock:

Thanks for your input.
Rick

[jchiar]

you should put 1 male to 2 females in seperate cages

[stewaw]

IMHO, they are a little cramped for adult birds.  At those dimensions, you are allowing approx 1/2 sq foot per bird.  The only time mine are packed that tight is when they are chicks in the brooder. Fighting among my adults rises dramatically any time I drop much below 2 sq ft/bird. I must also offer the disclaimer that mine are all Tenn Red bobwhites which are notorious for being a little on the agressive side.

Best of luck this season,
David

[texquailer]

Ok, got them set up in two cages with dividers in them. Now I have them grouped up in two males and four females in three sections (each section is 2’ x 2‘ 10“) and one section has one male and two females. The males seem to be mounting the females more then before. Hour of light is now at 18 hours equal added to morning and night. Also now I added three windows to let in natural light. Still no eggs …. I guess I just wait now.

Any other recommendations?

Thanks for the input, Rick

[penny's dad]

OK IT LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT SIZE PENS FOR THESE QUAIL, AND YOU ARE FEEDING THEM THE RIGHT FEED, YOU ARE GIVING THEM THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF LIGHT, SO IF THE TEMP IS STAYING AROUND THE 50S YOU SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO. DON'T DISTURB THEM ANY MORE THAN YOU HAVE TO, STAY BACK AWAY FROM THEM AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. BE PATIENT. AFTER I PUT THE LIGHTS ON MY QUAIL IT STILL TAKES ABOUT 2 WEEKS TO SEE THE RESULTS.THE EGGS WILL COME.       P.D.

[stewaw]

I agree with Penny's Dad......Looks like they are settling down a little more and getting down to business. Now just wait a couple of weeks and you should have more eggs than you can stand.

David

[texquailer]

Ok, thanks guys ... I'm still doing some construction to their home (shed / avairy). I think they got use to me being around, they eat, drink and sleep while Im in there.

Also, I added some oyster shell in a little cup to two of the cages. Is this an important part of their diet?

[penny's dad]

AS A GENERAL RULE IT IS TOO SOON TO BE GIVING OYSTER SHELLS. I ALWAYS WAIT UNTIL I GET EGGS, IF THE EGGS ARE NOT SOFT DON'T GIVE. IF ALL THE EGGS SEEM TO BE SOFT THEN GIVE. IF ONLY 1 HEN LAYS SOFT EGGS I USUALLY REMOVE THE HEN OR IF YOU DON'T HAVE A HEN TO REPLACE HER WITH GIVE SHELLS TO THIS PEN ONLY. IN MY OPINION OYSTER SHELLS ARE HARD TO DIGEST AND ARE HARD ON THE KIDNEYS. IN A NUT SHELL I ONLY GIVE OYSTER SHELLS AS A LAST RESORT.   P.D.

[texquailer]

Ok, thanks ... I'll remove the shells till they start laying.