That Quail Place Forum
Raising Gamebirds => General Discussion => Topic started by: labmancan on January 03, 2008, 08:01:51 AM
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A local breeder has used Sportsmans for $600.00 Cnd, he says he will also sell me the new plastic trays for $10.00 Cdn each. He has 9 units available, worth it or not? :-|
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A local breeder has used Sportsmans for $600.00 Cnd, he says he will also sell me the new plastic trays for $10.00 Cdn each. He has 9 units available, worth it or not? :-|
It depends on how used, make and model.
Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm
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they are Sportsman 1502's, he has had them sterilized and they appear to be fairly new,he has those big 2000 egg jobbies, so the Sportsman are going.
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Do they have the electronic thermostat with the back up wafer or just two wafer's.
If they are the updated 1502 with the electronic thermostats and have the plexiglas door with the possible auto water reservoir the price would be about right. Again, supply and demand will dictate price. Try to knock down the price $100. If he doesn't go for it, offer him more in 25.00 increments.
Here in WV used 1502 with the electronic thermostat are going between $350-450.00 USD and that is just the standard 1502 with out the extras. The plastic trays are usually included.
Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm
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He has one without the up graded Thermostat ($500.00), but I figured there are enough variables to work with so I am only interested in the newer models. These all come with what appears to be cardboard trays?
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Your wife sees you come home with a couple big incubators ......you better have some money left for the tent you'll need :grin:
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I'm allready looking for a nice spot for my Igloo. My Fishing shack just isn't warm enough. :grin:
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doesn't seem like much of a deal.a new one is almost that much and comes with a warranty.as for the trays i seen them on cutlers for 4 dollars a piece.how old is the unit? but my big thing is the warranty cause we all know that the turners go out quite a bit.
i would try to get him to lower the price a little.even on ebay used ones are only going for 300 to 400 dollars.
Lenny
Sugar Run Gamebirds
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doesn't seem like much of a deal.a new one is almost that much.......
i would try to get him to lower the price........even on ebay used ones are only going for 300 to 400 dollars.
That's what I was thinkin' too.
I thought maybe the prices had went up considerably since last summer. I was thinking that a new one could be had for a little over $500. ???
I personally would pass that one by for that kind of cash...........$400 (maybe),... The convenience and "no-hassle" of recieving it is worth something I guess. (No shipping, etc.) ???
What a dilema! :-|
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seems the sportsman has gone up to $600 from all the catalogs I get in the mail. From GQF theirs is $560.
Mark
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seems the sportsman has gone up to $600 from all the catalogs I get in the mail. From GQF theirs is $560.
Mark
Then add the shipping. labmancan is from AB up Reeves way. Figure on the shipping costs from the states up there and at least two weeks in transit time.
If the 1502 has the plexiglas door and the water res. tank, $600. is a good price.
Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm
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this is where i just purchased mine a few months ago.
http://www.dblrpoultrysupply.com/index-incubators.php?page=/store/incubators-main.html (http://www.dblrpoultrysupply.com/index-incubators.php?page=/store/incubators-main.html)
FREE SHIPPING and HANDLING
to anywhere in the lower 48 states!!!
You get all of this in one package....
One GQF Model 1502E Sportsman Incubator
One Clear Acrylic Door ( plus the regular door. Acrylic door must be installed by customer )
One 5 gallon Automatic Incubator Humidity Set-up with 2 humidity pads
Your choice of one set of the following egg racks
Quail Egg Racks ( Quail Eggs )
Pheasant Egg Racks ( Pheasant Eggs )
Universal Egg Racks ( Bantam to Pheasant to Medium Chicken Eggs )
Extra Large Egg Racks ( Turkey, Duck, Jumbo Chicken, etc )
Sportsman Plus Incubator
Item #G1502E-PLUS-DBLR · $734.99
Choose egg racksQuail Egg RacksPheasant Egg RacksUniversal Egg RacksExtra Large Egg Racks Quantity:
The No. 1502 “SPORTSMAN PLUS” is a complete incubator and hatcher plus a clear acrylic door, an automatic humidity device and your choice of egg racks! In addition to having three automatically turned trays, the 1502 has a hatching tray in the bottom of the incubator, a very reliable Pre-Set electronic thermostat, and an effective humidity control. So if you are just getting started with a small flock, all you need is this one incubator. The unique feature of this incubator allows the breeder to set the eggs each week or so and then hatch the oldest setting eggs at the same time. Settings are rotated among the three turning trays so that the hatching tray can accept the eggs from one of the setting trays each cycle. Another option is to set all of the trays at one time and at the end on incubation, level all of the setting trays to use all of the trays as hatchers.
*Total Capacity: 1368 Quail Eggs (set and hatch 250 per week) or 216 larger eggs, such as duck, etc. Each setting tray ( without the racks ) holds approximately 496 Quail Eggs, or 118 Chukar or Pheasant, or 90 small Chicken Eggs, or 40 Goose Eggs (not over 3 3 /4” overall height), or 60 Duck Eggs.
This incubator includes:
3 turning trays & 1 hatching tray with cover
1 #3018 dial thermometer/hygrometer
1 moisture pan with 2 wick pads
Samples of paper egg trays for quail, chicken/duck (1 each)
1 Aluminum clean out pan
Instruction booklet
1 #3256 Pre-Set Electronic thermostat
1 alternate #3122 wafer thermostat
The Humidity Kit Consists of 5 Gal. Reserve tank, connecting hose, with quick disconnect coupling and constant level humidity pan with 2 humidity pads, for increased humidity at time of hatch. For all GQF Cabinet Incubators
The clear acrylic door measures 31 1/4" x 15 1/2" x 1/2"
Plus your choice of one of the following egg rack sets:
#0243 Quail: Set of Six- Each No. 1202 Incubator tray will hold 2 egg racks (248 quail eggs) for a total of 744 eggs per incubator (racks single stacked). Molded post on each rack permits double stacking for total of 1368 eggs. -Plastic egg rack positioners offer the most efficient system for gathering, spray disinfectant treating and storing eggs. At time of setting eggs, just remove loaded egg rack positioners from storage area to the incubator setting trays.
#0246 Universal: Set of 6 -Holds any size egg from bantam, to pheasant, to medium chicken egg. Each of the No. 1202 incubator trays will hold 2 egg racks (90 eggs for a total of 270 eggs per incubator. (not stackable in GQF incubators)
#0245 Pheasant: Set of 6- Each No. 1202 Setting Incubator tray will hold 2 egg racks (118 pheasant eggs) for a total of 354 eggs per incubator. (Not Stackable in GQF incubators). -Plastic egg rack positioners offer the most efficient system for gathering, spray disinfectant treating and storing eggs. At a time of setting eggs, just remove loaded egg rack positioners from storage area to the incubator setting trays
#0248 Extra Large: Set of 6 -Holds extra large eggs: Turkey, Duck, Jumbo Chicken, etc.. Each of the No. 1202 incubators trays will hold 2 egg racks (60 eggs) for a total of 180 eggs per incubator. -Plastic egg rack positioners offer the most efficient system for gathering, spray disinfectant treating and storing of eggs. At a time of setting eggs, just remove loaded egg rack positioners from storage area to the incubator setting trays.
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I contacted Millars Hatcheries, thats our dealer, the 1502 is now $998.99 + 5% Tax. It turns out that the ones over at Dirt Willies are 1550s with the Electronic control and Wafer back-up, plus the 3gal. auto waterer with a float tank and site gauge, 2 thermometers but no Clear door. As he is a Federally Breeder, all his equipement is sterilized.
I picked up 1 1550 , 1 male Chukar and a male white Pheasant plus 6 Pheasant egg trays and 6 Quail egg trays for $600.00.
Now I have to go out and start building that igloo. s49
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You have a look at his Lynx ?
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Got pictures of my wife and daughter holding a kitten of his last spring. He sells them all over the world, the one from last spring was shipped out the next day.
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I also email this address about used hatcher he also has incubators you can try an email him or call an ask about a price for used incubator
From: Tony Anderson (tanderson@epmi.net)
Sent: Wed 12/26/07 11:58 AM
yes , we do. WE HAVE 3(GQF Hatchery) OF THEM . THE PRICE IS $300.00 FOB MARLOW,OKLA. 73055
IF YOU NEED TO CALL PLEASE CALL 580-658-5555 ,ASK FOR TONY
hope that helps....... got the add in the gamebird gazette
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I contacted Millars Hatcheries, thats our dealer, the 1502 is now $998.99 + 5% Tax. It turns out that the ones over at Dirt Willies are 1550s with the Electronic control and Wafer back-up, plus the 3gal. auto waterer with a float tank and site gauge, 2 thermometers but no Clear door. As he is a Federally Breeder, all his equipement is sterilized.
I picked up 1 1550 , 1 male Chukar and a male white Pheasant plus 6 Pheasant egg trays and 6 Quail egg trays for $600.00.
Now I have to go out and start building that igloo. s49
Why the high price on the 1502? is it the customs and shipping from the states? s53 you money is worth more then the US $$ I would think you could do better then that from a local dealer.
Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm
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They are the only game in town. s80 Also their stock was purchased and shipped when the $ was way low here. If they move 5-10 units a year that's a good year. Most of their business is to the large Chicken producers.
Last year, when I first started with the birds, I paid over $200.00 Cnd for the Hovabator there. :sad:
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I need to clear up some bad fact's :-[ 1202 /1250 not 1502/1550 s12
The Sportsman turns out to be the 1202e with the door off of a 1250 hatcher, it seems the guy took all the clear doors off the Incubators and switched them with the hatchers, so he could see what was going on better. I did get the 1202E with the#3030 Auto waterer and the#3021 turner system. I will get some Plexi and make a door.
Even without the clear door I don't think it was too bad a deal here s176. Seeing the U.S. prices is just hurting, I can only wish. Even with a strong $ we will never see the deals you fellows get. s49 s49 s49
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Well it wasn't that good a deal!
It don't work. I tried to set the Backup Wafer to 102* as the manual says, the 1202 is in a 70* garage, over two days I backed out until it screwed the arm out of the wafer! The temp never rose over 86*. So I removed the Backup wafer and tried to set the Electronic Dial, samething, the incubator just sits there with the Red indicator light flashing like a turn signal.
I only have to spend another 2-3 hundred on it and it should qualify as a Freeves!
After reading all the replys so far on the U.S. 1202 pricing I contacted several on line, the cheapest price I found for shipping was $130.00 U.S. and one outfit through U-Buy wanted a flat $250.00 s020. That plus the Duty s53( Free Trade my Arse) put the New 1202e over the $1000.00Cnd mark!
Glad I planned ahead and got this well before any eggs arrived, I do have two of the Hova-bators as backup.
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So, in other words............you're saying the electronic thermostat is bad? ......and the wafer is more than likely alright?
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I don't know, but that could be one possibility. If the electronic was bad wouldn't the wafer backup then take over? I couldn't get the wafer to bring the units temp. up either.
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If I remember correctly..............The back-up is to safeguard from overheating and cooking the eggs in the event that the Main (electronic) thermostat would stick in the closed (on) position. In order to use the "backup" thermostat to control temperature on some models, I was thinking that the main thermostat had to be manually disconnected? I would have to do a little studying to refresh my memory. I will see if I can find the links to the wiring diagrams (unless you already have them) and post them for you.
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Look Here:
(Be sure to look at the different models diagrams in the different sections to try to find the one that you have. I've found that Model ##'s doesn't seem to necessarily always coincide with what you may have exactly. I've got some diagrams and paperwork laying around here somewhere too, just holler if you need any more help with it.)
https://www.gqfmfg.com/store/instructions.asp
and:
http://www.cutlersupply.com/store/agora.cgi?cart_id=9658863.12885*1X6nI3&next=20&product=inc-parts
and:
http://www.thatquailplace.com/smf/index.php?topic=3754.0
I assume that you cranked the electronic stat up all of the way in order to see if it would run the temp up? Be careful......one little touching of the wrong wire in the wrong place will destroy that electronic thermostat. $70 (US).
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Thanks again CharlieHorse;
That would make that about $150.00 here. s176
I adjusted the Electronic one in about one full turn an hour for 6hrs last night. Same results. Do you think it could be the heat coil itself ?
I removed the top of the unit, it appears fairly simple in the wiring department. I checked it against the schematic you linked me to and it is wired the same.
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I adjusted the Electronic one in about one full turn an hour for 6hrs last night. Same results. Do you think it could be the heat coil itself ?
I'd crank that thing all the way up and see what happens. If it's heating at all, I doubt that the coil is bad. Depending on your electrical abilities, a test meter may be what you end up using to pinpoint the problem. If I remember correctly, some of those other "diagrams" will give you more info on how the thing actually works, even though soem of the wiring is a little different.....browse around. Meanwhile, I'll try to find some of my paperwork and look them over. Plus, others may have some ideas.
Good Luck
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Thanks C.H.
I have the dial all the way in now, has been since last night, still no change. I'll give the guy I bought it off a call today, he still had 7 left maybe he will trade for one that works.
Multi meter says the controls both have 115 volts and 15 amps supplied, only 68volts at coil! Loosing almost half voltage somewhere. s53 s53 s53 s53 s53
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You are turning it "up" aren't you and not down? :-| Not being a SA, just sometimes the obvious can make ya go..."Duh!!"
The light on mine burns continuously until it reaches temp and then blinks.
Multi meter says the controls both have 115 volts and 15 amps supplied, only 68volts at coil! Loosing almost half voltage somewhere.
I had a similiar problem with a new wafer stat in a brooder, except it was bleeding partial voltage through it when in the off position.
I'll give the guy I bought it off a call today, he still had 7 left maybe he will trade for one that works.
That may be your best bet.
Good Luck! ^-^
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Yup lucky for me the little increase/ decrease decal was still on the cabinet, or I would have had a hassle trying to figure which way called for heat.
I called him he said to bring it back this weekend and he will fix/replace it.
Good thing he is close, if I had had it sent from somewhere, I would have had to just keep replacing parts until it worked.
A little off topic.
I saw what he replaced these Sportsman with, because of his Quarantine he wouldn't let me look inside, but these things are HUGE they are like a walkin cooler. Cost $8500cdn a piece, will do 3000 eggs at a time.
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I saw what he replaced these Sportsman with, because of his Quarantine he wouldn't let me look inside, but these things are HUGE they are like a walkin cooler. Cost $8500cdn a piece, will do 300 eggs at a time.
Don't give chuck any ideas. Next thing you'll see a C-can in his front yard, converted into a monster incubator ! A drive in one at that !
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s20
s47
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OK loose Marrett was the reason the Electronic wasn't working properly. However the wafer still doesn't work. I replaced the wafer (twice), NO difference. I will try a new wafer assm. today s176.
$600.00 + 27.00 (2 wafers),+ (I don't know what they want for the whole wafer stat) won't be long and this should qualify for FREEVES status, piece of s53.
The original owner did give me a good deal on a Snow white R.N. to replace the male R.N. that the Owl got.
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OK loose Marrett was the reason the Electronic wasn't working properly. However the wafer still doesn't work. I replaced the wafer (twice), NO difference. I will try a new wafer assm. today s176.
$600.00 + 27.00 (2 wafers),+ (I don't know what they want for the whole wafer stat) won't be long and this should qualify for FREEVES status, piece of s53.
The original owner did give me a good deal on a Snow white R.N. to replace the male R.N. that the Owl got.
labmancan,
If the unit has the electronic thermostat, the back up wafer will not operate. You will have to disconnect the electronic thermostat to check the wafer out.
Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm
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Thanks for the info Steve;
The instructions stated to dial the Electronic back a turn or so. I will try to set the wafer with the Electronic disconected.
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You were bored and looking for something to do.
Apparently, you found something to do :grin:
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Even went to the P.O.P.W.A. annual general meeting Sunday ::)
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labmancan,
If the unit has the electronic thermostat, the back up wafer will not operate. You will have to disconnect the electronic thermostat to check the wafer out.
I'm not a GQF incubator guru by any means. The "wafer stat" on my GQF hacther with main electronic thermostat has the wafer stat wired into the system and is used as a safety switch to prevent overheating in case of electronic stat failure........but, I would assume that the electronic stat would have to be bypassed in order to use wafer stat as the sole thermostat?
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C.H.;
100% correct. If you disconnect the Electronic you have no power to the Wafer at all.
I just bought a new Wafer stat $37.99 + 5% tax, The instructions were worth it. I have it installed and am waiting for it to reach 107*, if and when it does, then I can adjust the Elect. to 99.75* and it should take over from the Wafer.
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OK loose Marrett was the reason the Electronic wasn't working properly.
What's that? :-|
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C.H.
They may call it a wire nut or Marr connecter down there, here they're a Marrette. A black. yellow or red bakelite type plastic, that you twist around 110vlt wire to splice them together. They are listed as 30,33,and 35 depending on the amperage rating and gauge of the wire.
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I thought of a way to fix it !
Cut a hole through the bottom, set on the house register/heat vent and crank the heat up ! "circulating" fan and all !
:grin:
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C.H.
They may call it a wire nut or Marr connecter down there, here they're a Marrette. A black. yellow or red bakelite type plastic, that you twist around 110vlt wire to splice them together. They are listed as 30,33,and 35 depending on the amperage rating and gauge of the wire.
I kinda figured that might be what you where talking about. I was an electricial contractor for about 20 years quite some time ago.
I thought of a way to fix it !
Cut a hole through the bottom, set on the house register/heat vent and crank the heat up ! "circulating" fan and all !
:grin:
s20
Don't pay any attention to "Reeves". He doesn't even know how an incubator works, that's why he doesn't have one.
s47
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Hey ! I have two !
Actually, counting all of them, there are ten.
(8 have feathers :grin:)
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Yup that would work if the wife wasn't already going through mental pause. I t can be 18-20* in the house and she breaks out into a sweat. I haven't even taken the air-conditioner out of the bedroom window yet.
Well no difference 2 new wafers, a new wafer stat, disconnect Electronic (NO power at all). The manual says to set the wafer (back) control first, set it to 107* so it will keep the eggs from cooking if the Elect. fails. Garage is 72*f, the wafer will not raise the 1202 temp above 88*f s176 s80 s53 s53 s53. Time to return it, see if he has one that works, it can only be the Electronic control at this point.
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I t can be 18-20* in the house and she breaks out into a sweat. I haven't even taken the air-conditioner out of the bedroom window yet.
s020
Been there c29
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I could be wrong, but I was thinking the back up t-stat was set at 102F? 107 seems too high to me...that they would be cooked! ???
Did you bypass the electronic stat all together and try running it just on the wafer in order to eliminate the possibility of any other problem?
Hey ! I have two !
Actually, counting all of them, there are ten.
(8 have feathers :grin:)
^-^
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107* :-[ :-[ :-[ whoops typo, Them little Quail would be just like popcorn. s98 102* is the correct temp.
I only tried it with the Electronic disconnected all together, then there is no power at all. It gave me something to do for a few days, now he can have it back i'll take one of his others. I have breeding prs. of Coturnix coming today that are already laying, (forced lighting) and don't have the time to play with it anymore.
I still need to finsh my new Brooders, and the auto waterers for the Gang cages/Battery pens.
Before anyone jumps in about it, I do have two other incubators that are ready and 3 other Brooders.
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I finally got straightened out what I need to have on my DNR permit yesterday, the only Quail I have to report are Bobwhites so the Mtn and Mearns will for sure be keepers. I can have Huns so might get several pair this year or buy a couple doz eggs. For the permit here I need only report BW Quail, Ringnecks, Huns and Grouse. I am leaning towards adding a couple pair of one of the white earred pheasants, I think they are gorgeous. Next year my little Hovabator is going to be busy ! Mabe some Bantam hens too.
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We don't need permits for anything here except for Migratory. All native species ie: Grouse of any kind are not allowed. I tried to get a permit for Ruffled Grouse, The Wild Life officer just laughed. Still having a problem getting Huns. will try East. later this spring.
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You can get the permits. You just have to keep climbing the ladder till you get a person that knows what they are doing.
You may also have to build pens to their specs.
I still haven't found the right person for a Fallow Deer permit. Alberta Ag says it is F&W, F&W says it's AB Ag. Both have send (faxed) info.....and none has to do with what I want/need !
Good thing I'm not in a hurry !
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Reeves:
Both you and I build our pens to exceed Provincial spec., so that won't be a problem ::) Now to find the right govt. agent./agencie s176.
The Sporstman dilema is now solved!
There is a little nub that projects out of the switch that the Waffle activates, both the NEW Wafer Stat and the original were oxcided up, the reason I couldn't reach a higher temp. was because the nub must move freely in and out of the switch. This is also the reason I was showing a voltage drop from the live side of the switch to the heating coil. In the future if anyone is having problems like this just free that nub and lube it, I used JIG A LOO!
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MI does specify the minimum size the pens must be, as I understand they are strict on that. Basically permits are only issued on birds that can be legally hunted here, the more private birds that are reared and released the better so they dont prohibit much but they are strict on what they allow. I can live with that. As I said I may add the Huns this year instead of waiting a year.
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Here we can raise any nonnative Gamebirds, without a permit. If I can find out who, if anyone, issues permits for Grouse I might also look at Ptarmigan.
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The folks in Devon will know who to contact for the bird permits...
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not sure who that is in Devon, is it Prov. F&W or Ag.?
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Bush