Sportsman Deal?

[hunter3015]

I also email this address about used hatcher he also has incubators you can try an email him or call an ask about a price for used incubator

From: Tony Anderson (tanderson@epmi.net)
Sent: Wed 12/26/07 11:58 AM


yes , we do. WE HAVE 3(GQF Hatchery) OF THEM . THE PRICE IS $300.00 FOB MARLOW,OKLA. 73055
 
IF YOU NEED TO CALL PLEASE CALL 580-658-5555 ,ASK FOR TONY


hope that helps.......  got the add in the gamebird gazette

[Pheasant Hollow Farm]

I contacted Millars Hatcheries, thats our dealer, the 1502 is now $998.99 + 5% Tax. It turns out that the ones over at Dirt Willies are 1550s with the Electronic control and Wafer back-up, plus the 3gal. auto waterer with a float tank and site gauge, 2 thermometers but no Clear door. As he is a Federally Breeder, all his equipement is sterilized.
I picked up 1 1550 , 1 male Chukar and a male white Pheasant plus 6 Pheasant egg trays and 6 Quail egg trays for $600.00.
Now I have to go out and start building that igloo.

Why the high price on the 1502? is it the customs and shipping from the states?  you money is worth more then the US $$ I would think you could do better then that from a local dealer.

Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm

[labmancan]

They are the only game in town. Also their stock was purchased and shipped when the $ was way low here. If they move 5-10 units a year that's a good year. Most of their business is to the large Chicken producers.
Last year, when I first started with the birds, I paid over $200.00 Cnd for the Hovabator there.

[labmancan]

I need to clear up some bad fact's 1202 /1250 not 1502/1550
The Sportsman turns out to be the 1202e with the door off of a 1250 hatcher, it seems the guy took all the clear doors off the Incubators and switched them with the hatchers, so he could see what was going on better. I did get the 1202E with the#3030 Auto waterer and the#3021 turner system. I will get some Plexi and make a door.
Even without the clear door I don't think it was too bad a deal here . Seeing the U.S. prices is just hurting, I can only wish. Even with a strong $ we will never see the deals you fellows get.

[labmancan]

Well it wasn't that good a deal!
It don't work. I tried to set the Backup Wafer to 102* as the manual says, the 1202 is in a 70* garage, over two days I backed out until it screwed the arm out of the wafer! The temp never rose over 86*. So I removed the Backup wafer and tried to set the Electronic Dial, samething, the incubator just sits there with the Red indicator light flashing like a turn signal.
I only have to spend another 2-3 hundred on it and it should qualify as a Freeves!
After reading all the replys so far on the U.S. 1202 pricing I contacted several on line, the cheapest price I found for shipping was $130.00 U.S. and one outfit through U-Buy wanted a flat $250.00 . That plus the Duty ( Free Trade my Arse) put the New 1202e over the $1000.00Cnd mark!
Glad I planned ahead and got this well before any eggs arrived, I do have two of the Hova-bators as backup.

[CharlieHorse]

So, in other words............you're saying the electronic thermostat is bad? ......and the wafer is more than likely alright?

[labmancan]

I don't know, but that could be one possibility. If the electronic was bad wouldn't the wafer backup then take over? I couldn't get the wafer to bring the units temp. up either.

[CharlieHorse]

If I remember correctly..............The back-up is to safeguard from overheating and cooking the eggs in the event that the Main (electronic) thermostat would stick in the closed (on) position.  In order to use the "backup" thermostat to control temperature on some models, I was thinking that the main thermostat had to be manually disconnected?  I would have to do a little studying to refresh my memory. I will see if I can find the links to the wiring diagrams (unless you already have them) and post them for you.

[CharlieHorse]

Look Here:

(Be sure to look at the different models diagrams in the different sections to try to find the one that you have. I've found that Model ##'s doesn't seem to necessarily always coincide with what you may have exactly. I've got some diagrams and paperwork laying around here somewhere too, just holler if you need any more help with it.)

https://www.gqfmfg.com/store/instructions.asp


and:

http://www.cutlersupply.com/store/agora.cgi?cart_id=9658863.12885*1X6nI3&next=20&product=inc-parts

and:

http://www.thatquailplace.com/smf/index.php?topic=3754.0

I assume that you cranked the electronic stat up all of the way in order to see if it would run the temp up?   Be careful......one little touching of the wrong wire in the wrong place will destroy that electronic thermostat.   $70 (US).

[labmancan]

Thanks again CharlieHorse;
 That would make that about $150.00 here.
I adjusted the Electronic one in about one full turn an hour for 6hrs last night. Same results. Do you think it could be the heat coil itself ?
I removed the top of the unit, it appears fairly simple in the wiring department. I checked it against the schematic you linked me to and it is wired the same.

[CharlieHorse]

I adjusted the Electronic one in about one full turn an hour for 6hrs last night. Same results. Do you think it could be the heat coil itself ?

I'd crank that thing all the way up and see what happens.  If it's heating at all, I doubt that the coil is bad.  Depending on your electrical abilities, a test meter may be what you end up using to pinpoint the problem. If I remember correctly, some of those other "diagrams" will give you more info on how the thing actually works, even though soem of the wiring is a little different.....browse around. Meanwhile, I'll try to find some of my paperwork and look them over. Plus, others may have some ideas.

Good Luck

[labmancan]

Thanks C.H.
I have the dial all the way in now, has been since last night, still no change. I'll give the guy I bought it off a call today, he still had 7 left maybe he will trade for one that works.
Multi meter says the controls  both have 115 volts and 15 amps supplied, only 68volts at coil! Loosing almost half voltage somewhere.

[CharlieHorse]

You are turning it "up" aren't you and not down?      Not being a SA, just sometimes the obvious can make ya go..."Duh!!"

The light on mine burns continuously until it reaches temp and then blinks.

Multi meter says the controls  both have 115 volts and 15 amps supplied, only 68volts at coil! Loosing almost half voltage somewhere.

I had a similiar problem with a new wafer stat in a brooder, except it was bleeding partial voltage through it when in the off position.

I'll give the guy I bought it off a call today, he still had 7 left maybe he will trade for one that works.

That may be your best bet.

Good Luck!   

[labmancan]

Yup lucky for me the little increase/ decrease decal was still on the cabinet, or I would have had a hassle trying to figure which way called for heat.
I called him he said to bring it back this weekend and he will fix/replace it.
Good thing he is close, if I had had it sent from somewhere, I would have had to just keep replacing parts until it worked.

A little off topic.
I saw what he replaced these Sportsman with, because of his Quarantine he wouldn't let me look inside, but these things are HUGE they are like a walkin cooler. Cost $8500cdn a piece, will do 3000 eggs at a time.

[Reeves]

I saw what he replaced these Sportsman with, because of his Quarantine he wouldn't let me look inside, but these things are HUGE they are like a walkin cooler. Cost $8500cdn a piece, will do 300 eggs at a time.

Don't give chuck any ideas. Next thing you'll see a C-can in his front yard, converted into a monster incubator ! A drive in one at that !