That Quail Place Forum
Raising Gamebirds => Incubation => Topic started by: Reeves on July 13, 2007, 07:03:16 PM
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Incubator Environment
A. Temperature
Temperature is the most critical factor in the hatchability of eggs. In forced-draft machines, the temperature should be between 99 and 100f (37 and 38C) with a mean setting of 99.5f (37.5C). In still-air machines, the temperature taken at the top of the egg should be about 102f (39C); care should be taken that the temperature does not exceed 103f (40C). The lowest temperature (or physiological zero) for the egg development has been determined to be about 68f (20C); the highest temperature is about 109f (43C).
B. Humidity Requirements
Humidity is important because it controls the evaporation of water from the egg and maintains the proper physiochemical equilibrium among the various egg constituents. High humidity seals the pores of the egg shell and prevents proper exchange of gasses and can lead to asphyxiation of the embryo. Low humidity permits excessive evaporation of the egg contents and retards development of the embryo. The normal relative humidity for the incubation of pheasant, partridge, and quail eggs is about 46 percent. In a constant forced-air machine, pheasant and partridge eggs develope best if exposed to a wet-bulb reading of 82f (28C) during incubation and a temperature of about 90f (32C) in the hatcher. Quail generally require a higher humidity at the beginning of incubation, 86f (30C) wet bulb and about 90f (32C) wet bulb in the hatcher (Table 6-2). Refer to figure 6-3 for converting wet-bulb readings (degrees Fahrenheit) to relative humidity (percent).
Fig 6-2
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/humiditychart62.jpg)
Fig 6-3
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/humiditychart.jpg)
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Hatching
As hatching is done at a higher humidity and lower temperature than incubation, a separate hatcher is usually required. A glass or transparent front or top of the hatcher will assist in monitoring the hatch without disturbing the hatching environment. The hatcher should operate at 98.5f (37c) with a wet bulb at 90c to 92f (32.2c-33.4c) or higher. A high humidity is helpful for slightly softening the egg shell membrane, making pipping and escape easier. The lower temperature reflects the additional heat being generated by the chick as it prepares for pipping and changes over from amniotic to pulmonary breathing. Some operators sprinkle the egg with warm water during the transfer from incubator to hatcher. This gives the egg a start by slightly softening the shell membrane.
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Wet bulb is exactly what it states. It is the temperature relative of the humidity in degrees. A Hygrometer Wick is placed over the stem of the thermometer and the other end of the sleeve is placed in the water pan. The same thermometer can be used for wet bulb or checking incubator temps. This is what I have in my GQF 1502 Sportsman incubator. (http://www.cutlersupply.com/cart/images/3018.jpg)
I have two of them instead of the one. This way I can view the wet bulb temp and the incubator temp the same time
Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm
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Had to be a typo. I re-read the book & it doesn't match any other numbers. So I edit that post.
Sorry ! I should have caught it when first typed it out !
re temps between eggs. Temperatures should be taken no higher than top of eggs. You may want to tweek it down a bit, or at least next time.
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About a hundred years ago, I promised to post links to a humidity/wet bulb conversion calculator. Here are five, plus, one that has several other calculators, also.
http://www.wtoctv.com/Global/category.asp?C=10666
http://www.csgnetwork.com/dewptrelhumcalc.html
http://www.abc15.com/content/weather/calculators/wetbulb_drybulb.aspx
http://www.the-snowman.com/wetbulb.html
http://www.johnsnhweather.com/wetbulb.html
http://www.pipingnews.com/psychrom.htm
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very helpful!!!!! j41
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Reeves, When I take quail eggs out of pen and put them in sand box in area at 60-70 degrees do I put them small end down like in incubator or on side? Think I have that streight. I have seen this posted before, just easier to ask than look up.
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You need to read the egg storage info again (in Before Incubation) :angel:
70f is too hot. Dry sand for storage is not great: may dry out eggs too fast.
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Incubator Environment
A. Temperature
Temperature is the most critical factor in the hatchability of eggs. In forced-draft machines, the temperature should be between 99 and 100f (37 and 38C) with a mean setting of 99.5f (37.5C). In still-air machines, the temperature taken at the top of the egg should be about 102f (39C); care should be taken that the temperature does not exceed 103f (40C). The lowest temperature (or physiological zero) for the egg development has been determined to be about 68f (20C); the highest temperature is about 109f (43C).
B. Humidity Requirements
Humidity is important because it controls the evaporation of water from the egg and maintains the proper physiochemical equilibrium among the various egg constituents. High humidity seals the pores of the egg shell and prevents proper exchange of gasses and can lead to asphyxiation of the embryo. Low humidity permits excessive evaporation of the egg contents and retards development of the embryo. The normal relative humidity for the incubation of pheasant, partridge, and quail eggs is about 46 percent. In a constant forced-air machine, pheasant and partridge eggs develope best if exposed to a wet-bulb reading of 82f (28C) during incubation and a temperature of about 90f (32C) in the hatcher. Quail generally require a higher humidity at the beginning of incubation, 86f (30C) wet bulb and about 90f (32C) wet bulb in the hatcher (Table 6-2). Refer to figure 6-3 for converting wet-bulb readings (degrees Fahrenheit) to relative humidity (percent).
Fig 6-2
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/humiditychart62.jpg)
Fig 6-3
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/humiditychart.jpg)
Will these temps work for turkey and duck eggs as well? s144 Thanks for your help!
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Off the top of my head, not sure about Turkeys.
Unlikely to work for Ducks.
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My incubator jumped from 46% to 60% humidity today. I pulled the plug hoping it would drop but with the humidity in the air being about 60% also it's not going down. they're not supposed to hatch until the 2nd. Any suggestions to lower the humidity without losing heat? s85
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If you want to lower it take water out...but as close as you are to hatching NO matter....
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I agree with slider. Just let it ride..
Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm
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thanks. I,ll wait and see.
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all worked out well. Right on schedule 12 of the 15 fertile eggs hatched. Two others pipped but never made it out. the last one never hatched. Doing well. they're 1 wk old now
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Wet bulb is exactly what it states. It is the temperature relative of the humidity in degrees. A Hygrometer Wick is placed over the stem of the thermometer and the other end of the sleeve is placed in the water pan. The same thermometer can be used for wet bulb or checking incubator temps. This is what I have in my GQF 1502 Sportsman incubator. (http://www.cutlersupply.com/store/html/images/3018.JPG)
I have two of them instead of the one. This way I can view the wet bulb temp and the incubator temp the same time
Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm
sorry for the question, but i buy a sportsman too and it didn't came with dial thermometer, it came with an automatic control that indicates the temp inside the incubator, humidity, and outside temp. and a chart that indicates the proper humidity at incubation and at hatch. and this chart marks lower humidity at hatchin time,from 60% to 65%. is this info correct or gqf, is sending wrong info to their customers? did yours have this label too?
thanks for your time.
Alan
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Are you comparing the 60%-65% to the 82F-86F wet bulb figures? They are two different methods of measuring humidity.
Follow the manufacturers recommendation, until you are told different by someone who has had specific experience.
For Bobwhite Quail, 60% is about right, then raise it to 70%, if possible, the last three days.
The altitude in Mexico City (over 7000 feet, isn't it?) is a big problem when trying to maintain high humidity. There, you may have to use one pad, then add two, maybe even a second humidity pan (maybe a small one?
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Wet bulb is exactly what it states. It is the temperature relative of the humidity in degrees. A Hygrometer Wick is placed over the stem of the thermometer and the other end of the sleeve is placed in the water pan. The same thermometer can be used for wet bulb or checking incubator temps. This is what I have in my GQF 1502 Sportsman incubator. (http://www.cutlersupply.com/store/html/images/3018.JPG)
I have two of them instead of the one. This way I can view the wet bulb temp and the incubator temp the same time
Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm
Steve I just found this post while searching through old posts like a good boy. :grin: you have two thermometers?? did you just drill another hole for the second? and if the wick is left in place on the hygrometer does it get used up like the humidity pads? this sounds like one of those ( why didn,t I think of that deals)
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did you just drill another hole for the second?
I don't know what Pheasant Holler did, but that's what I did.
And yes....those wicks will go bad.
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I guess I will have to try that out