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Author Topic: Plywood Brooder Plans  (Read 26119 times)
fowler
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« on: January 27, 2005, 03:03:00 PM »

Not too long ago, someone posted up their specs on a plywood brooder they had built.  I remember some of them, but not all.  It had three sections which could be expanded by simply lifting out a plywood barrier and allowed for more room as chicks grew.  

Can anyone remember this or have something close?

fowler
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CharlieHorse
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« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2005, 01:19:20 PM »

It was about a year ago when that was posted. The forum of course has been changed since then and all info lost. If I remember correctly, I think that it required one sheet of plywood. Cut 12" wide, using it as the sides and dividers. He made wire top and bottom. A enclosed box on one end to keep newborns and the divider (one side of enclosure) was raised a little as the chicks got old enough to venture out into the open unheated area. Then there was another sectioned off area that the divider could also be raised to allow for more room as the chicks got older, etc. I believe that the whole thing measured 4'x8' when finished.
   This may not help you any, but that's about the best my memmory can do.
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CHARLIE
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« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2005, 01:45:08 PM »

I THOUGHT I SAVE THE INFO FOR LATER USE, HERE IT IS--   I build my brooders out of 1 sheet of plywood cut long ways into 3rds. That gives me 3, 8ft x 16in, strips of which I cut one in half for the ends. That gives you a overall size of 8' x 4' x 16". Put 2 1/2 x 1/2 molding strips top to bottom 3/8" apart 2 feet from 1 end and slide a piece of 4' x 16" 1/4 panel in the groove, do the same thing 3 feet futher down. You now have two 3' sections and one 2' section. Put 1/2 hardware cloth on bottom and build 2 frames to fit over the two 3' sections and cover with chicken wire. Use a piece of plywood goes over the 2' section which is where your heat source goes wired into a wafer thermostate. For the first week you can let the boards down on all sections and keep the chicks contained in the 2' heated section which will keep 100-150 chicks +. After the first week you can raise the board about 2" and let them wander into the 1st 3' section and return to the heat when needed. As they grow raise the board between the two 3' sections to allow them access to the entire brooder. This will be large enough to get 100-150+ birds to six weeks.

        CHARLIE
        BACKYARD GAMEBIRD FARM
              DELAWARE
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CharlieHorse
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Northern Bobwhites

« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2005, 02:54:34 PM »

There ya go "fowler"......straight from the horses mouth.  I figured that whom ever posted that before would see your post, I just didn't remember that it was Charlie.
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penny's dad
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« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2005, 07:42:03 PM »

Quote from: trailbossusa
There ya go "fowler"......straight from the horses mouth.  I figured that whom ever posted that before would see your post, I just didn't remember that it was Charlie.
I WAS JUST THINKING HOW DO YOU HEAT IT? MAYBE ITS BETTER THAN MINE IM JUST FIXIN TO BUILD A NEW ONE :idea:
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magnumhntr
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« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2005, 08:01:50 PM »

Hey Charlie, think you could put up a picture of that brooder design? Either that or could you send me a pic to magnumhntr@hotmail.com

Thanks,
Chris
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Chris Morehouse
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CHARLIE
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« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2005, 12:41:37 AM »

HAY GUYS
 NOT MY DESIGN I SAW IT A LONG TIME AGO AND COPIED AND SAVED THE INFO. DONT REMEMBER IF IT WAS ON HERE OR ANOTHER FORUM. I THOUGHT I WOULD BUILD ONE SOMETIME BUT HAVENT DONE SO YET,
  SORRY  NOT ME
                          CHARLIE
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flightedquail
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« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2005, 10:20:02 AM »

After using GQF battery brooders for sometime, I decided to build my own.
Controlled heating should be your main concern and ample space for the number of birds is next. Don't forget fresh water and feed.  My brooders are 24 feet long, 24 inches wide, 12 inches tall. They are all 2" X 4" framed and covered with 3/8" plywood, painted outside and sealed with polyurethane inside. Tops are full opening, fronts are also hinged with hardware cloth covering them for ventalation, bottoms are 1/2" hardware cloth. They are divided every four feet by a piece of plywood inserted in slots and the dividers can be raised as required. I constructed my own heaters, but do use the GQF wafer and switch controllers. I use soft blue lighting in all my brooders and grow out pens. Hinged, screened openings are on each end to move the chicks to grow out pens as they age. I raise several thousand birds per year and try to keep human contact with the birds to a minimum as I strive for flight conditioned birds for relaease.  I could probably draw the plans if some one is interested.
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penny's dad
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« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2005, 11:43:45 AM »

Sounds good but I would never need a brooder that large. what I use are 4 small 2ft wide x 6ft long x 1ft high brooders.  I use 2x4s for the frame. cover the entire floor wit 1/2 inch hardware cloth. cover the sides with 1/2 inch hardware cloth also . I use 3/8 plywood to cover the sides also,that are hinged for ventalation. 1/3 of the brooder is boxed for the heat box. I cut a 4"x4" hole in the box so the birds can go and come to heat as needed. this hole can be blocked for confinement. The entire top is covered with ply wood. the heat box top is hinged for access for feeding,and water. I use theGQF thermostat wired to a recepticle mounted in the brooder.all the thermostat does is power the recepticle. For a heat source I use a blow dryer plugged up to the recepticle for the thermostat to control. Usually run the dryer on low. nozzle of hair dryer stuck through a hole cut into the heat box.found it works better with a coffee can drilled full of holes covering the hole on the inside to diffuse the heat. I always use a 15 watt light bulb painted red on a dimmer switch to lower it even more. All the light I provide is just enough for the birds to see to feed and drink.I can usually raise 100-150 Bobwhite to 5wks in each. Hope this helps someone  P.D. :D
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CHARLIE
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« Reply #9 on: January 30, 2005, 01:28:34 PM »

YOURS SOUNDS GREAT BUT HOW LONG DOES A HAIR DRYER LAST OR HOW LONG IS IT ON FOR ?? I TAKE IT ITS THE SMALL HAND HELD TYPE.
                 CHARLIE
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penny's dad
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« Reply #10 on: January 30, 2005, 03:37:18 PM »

I'm talking about the handheld kind you buy at Wal-mart for $10.00. Not sure how long they will last I replace it every year. when it gets everything up to temp. It will only run for about 15 or 20 seconds at the time. stay off for like 45 seconds. this is based on ambient temp.of like 70 degrees F naturally the lower the temp. the more the dryer will run. :)   Hey save the box and give the old one to your wife for christmas. :lol:
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Birderguy
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« Reply #11 on: January 31, 2005, 10:25:44 AM »

Hey flightedquail

I'd be interested in your plans and especially instructions on how you make your heaters.
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fowler
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« Reply #12 on: January 31, 2005, 11:19:03 AM »

Thanks Charlie and everyone else for the suggestions and help.

fowler
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magnumhntr
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« Reply #13 on: February 01, 2005, 09:46:56 AM »

I'd also be interested in your brooder plans.
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Chris Morehouse
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CharlieHorse
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Northern Bobwhites

« Reply #14 on: February 01, 2005, 03:17:27 PM »

I use a 2' baseboard heater in my homemade brooder controlled by a 110v thermostat designed for use with lizards and such. It works great and more than likely will never go bad like a bulb or any other device. Just be sure to take a peice of sheet metal and bend it to fit on top of the heater at about a 45 degree angle to keep them from getting on the heaters top flat surface. I put 1/4" hardware cloth across the front also to keep them out of it.
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